16" F/4 "Hex Scope"


Well, after completing three scopes under 10" in aperture, I had to have a "large" telescope.  I was offerred a 16" F/4 pregenerated blank for a good price, so I started grinding.  The mirror was finished in November, 2003, and first light was in December on a very cold evening with snow on the ground.  The Orion Nebula looked fantastic, and Saturn, viewed low in the east through unstable air, offerred hints of the subtle details that would be revealed by this mirror that has turned out to be excellent.  When I want to do planetary obseving, this is my go to scope!

Here it is, ready to observe in Allerton Park near Monticello IL, ready for observing at another site (with my travel scope in the background), and set up in my living room.

Sunset shot observing In living room

This scope's unique feature is it's shape - the mirror box and rocker box are hexagonal.  This makes attaching the mirror cell and the 6-pole truss tubes easier, and makes the mirror box take up less space than a square version.  It's also quite a fun woodworking challenge to make, which I enjoyed.  The side bearings are removeable, and all the scope parts, including a wooden box to hole the poles, fit in my Outback behind the back seat (NOT folded down).  In the first picture the mirror box vent flaps are open, exposing the covered primary mirror.  The flashlight hanging off the top of the scope is my counterweight for now.  A light shield attached to the diagonal cage across from the focuser is used for observing, but is not pictured here.

Another handy feature are the remote collimation rods, which allow collimation to be done while looking in the focuser.  The rods are the wooden poles with a "T" handle at the top end and a 9/16" socket that fits the collimation bolt at the other, and are located between truss poles.  At F/4, collimation is critical, and I usually tweak it using a star or a moon of Jupiter.  Then I can enjoy all the delicious lunar and planetary detail that this scope can deliver.

Here are photos of the hexagonal mirror box being glued up.  The mirror box is made of 3/4" poplar plywood, and the secondary cage is 1/2".  A biscuit joiner was used to cut biscuit slots in the edges of the 6 pieces of the mirror box.  This automatically aligned the edges of the sides, and all I had to do was apply glue quickly to all the surfaces and convince it to go together.  This required lots of patience, hammering, clamping, cursing, and then more clamping.  Finally the gaps were all closed, and the box was strong. A baffle sits in a dado a couple of inches down in to the top of the box, adding tremendous strength.  (This can be seen in a later picture showing the top of the mirror box and the pole clamps.)  In the next picture, the diagonal cage assembled for the first time, complete with AstroSystems spider and a FeatherTouch focuser, the best I have ever used.  All my future scopes (F/6 and below) are getting one of these!  The third picture here is of the grinding tool, polishing lap, two figuring laps and the test mask.

Glueup Secondary cage Mirror making stuff

The first picture below shows the accessory box that holds the telrad, electrical box and wiring, telrad heater, side bearing attachment knobs, etc.
The next photo shows the top of the mirror box, with the accessory box sitting on top of the mirror cover, as it does in storage mode.  The bottom of the box has a hole in it to accommodate the handle for the mirror cover..  Note the white PVC pipe "guides" at the upper right and left of the baffle in the mirror box.  These pipes guide the collimation rods down to the bolts with no danger of banging against the mirror.  The pole clamps were made from two thicknesses of 3/4" poplar plywood, and the holes were carefully drilled at the proper angles.
The third photo below is the back of the mirror cell, showing the dual ventilation fans and the 6-point cell composed of three teeter-totter supports with teflon pads.  The cell is tringular, and moves as a unit, so I never risk driving the mirror into the retaining clips, since they move with the mirror.  The top cornter of the triangle is bolted to the hexagonal frame, but rubber washers allow the triangle to tilt and twist.  This accommodates collimation movement, accomplished by the two bolts at the bottom corners of the triangle, and driven by the user turning the collimation rods while looking down the focuser.  All my one-person scopes in the future will have remote collimation knobs!
The last photo is of the scope in storage.  I built a rolling cart that rides on tracks above my basement stairway, which is just inside a door leading to the driveway.  I roll the cart out and the scope can be carried out the door and put in the car.  To put it away, put it all back on the cart and roll the cart back so the stairs can be used.  It makes good use of otherwise wasted space.

Accessory box Box stored Mirror cell back Storage cart

I modified my Telrad to be an electrical distribution center for this scope, so I run a power wire up from the fan control box that gets attached with velcro to the mirror cell.  This powers the secondary heater, Telrad, and Telrad and eyepiece heaters.  These heaters are all capable of removing dew if necessary, and this often is necessary here in humid Illinois.

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